The Lambert
Arms, Aston Rowant, Watlington, Oxfordshire
“It’s
a rare surprise — and pleasure —
to discover something
is better than perceived from its website and brochure.
One such ‘find’
is The Lambert Arms...”
THE PHOTOGRAPH OF THE LAMBERT ARMS didn't, at least on first acquaintance,
inspire as much as its location near both the M40 and Oxford ticked all the
right boxes. Adding to its appeal, however, was the fact that the highly-respected
Michelin-starred chef, Rob Clayton (of The Priory Hotel in Bath fame), had put
together the menu. And we were sure that someone of that stature would not risk
his reputation by backing a lame duck...
Our attention suitably grabbed, we then discovered that the former pub was one
of the six Merchant Inns that have been given a new lease of life. These hotels
are all located in semi-rural areas but they benefit immensely from being situated
in highly accessible positions, with modern annexes housing additional bedrooms
and conference facilities.
In addition, at the Lambert Arms there is a fully equipped gym/fitness centre
and a spa offering pampering from facials to massages.
The original mid-Victorian building was actually very attractive inside with
a good atmosphere in the various quiet sitting areas, dining room and cosy bar.
Outside the original building, a grassy courtyard has been framed by newly built
wings in which the bedrooms, the state-of-the-art gym and pampering spa are
all housed.
The most prominent feature of our bedroom was the gigantic television with plenty
of channels and in-house films. Also on the large side were the bed, shower
and bath. All the usual features were present except the normally over-priced
mini-bar — instead there were two complimentary bottles of water in the
room. A far better idea!
It was good to see that there were a couple of specially adapted rooms for the
disabled, together with rooms reserved for those of us who like to be accompanied
by one of 'man's best friends'. All too often it is extremely difficult to find
a dog-friendly hotel and to find one that offers such a comprehensive set of
'services' for a pooch is indeed worthy of note.
The hotel is apparently full most nights but if they sense there will be some
space they operate a flexible pricing policy where bargains — particularly
on Sunday nights — can surprise.
The ease of finding the hotel along with its high standards and the delicious
food matched with keen prices will appeal to a wide public. Whilst obviously
not enough locals patronised the Lambert Arms when it was an out-of-village
pub, they now — not surprisingly — flock to the bar and restaurant.
The locals are also heavy users of the spa facilities, so it is wise to book,
at least until the planned expansion is completed. Certainly we can more than
recommend a massage by Annabel — I literally floated on air for at least
a week and my skin was incredibly rejuvenated. It was probably the most relaxing
and pampering massage I have ever received.
Returning
to the subject of chefs, never accepting anything for granted we started our
dinner with the most difficult to cook item on the menu: scallops. With a full
dining room and with the close attention that scallops demand, it would be all
too easy to slip up. We needn't have worried: our scallops were cooked to perfection!
After that we relaxed and the meal was excellent both for the quality and value.
In fact, the prices related more to pub meals but the results were very much
in the territory of restaurants aspiring to gain a Michelin star.
The food, both in the bar and restaurant, is superb, imaginative, modern British
food with a choice of both pub 'classics' and fine dining. Set in comfortable,
friendly and quintessentially British surroundings, what more could you ask?
Those comfy surroundings were much appreciated as we were pleasantly exhausted
after our annual visit to nearby Waterperry where possibly the biggest, and
almost certainly the best, arts and crafts fair — Art in Action —
is staged.
Is the Lambert Arms trying to be the first fully booked hotel and restaurant
for Christmas? From our experience, it deserves to be. And, along with the other
hotels in the group, there are some more than tempting offers. — Bonnie
and Tim Stevens
Check out lambertarms.com, merchant-inns.com
and visitsouthoxfordshire.co.uk.
